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Courchevel Apres Ski Report: 10th January 2013

Eating My Way Around Courchevel

I realise up until this point most of my apres reports have revolved around drinking. Believe it or not, there are other things to do in resort other than drink and ski. Ever the committed reporter, this week I have endured a couple of the best restaurants around to bring you some variety. Anything for you, the reader!

The Petit Savoyard has been serving hungry skiers for 20 years and is a key player in the Courchevel Moriond restaurant scene. Like many of the local restaurants it serves a mix of Savoyard specialties as well as pizzas, steaks and pasta. What makes this place stand out from the crowd though is the service. Pascal and his team are a really friendly bunch and unlike other restaurants if you order in French and are clearly trying your best they will reply in French rather than converting back to English.

The food at the Petit Savoyard has always been good but this year they have noticeably stepped up their game. Last week, seven of us arrived promptly at seven for the early sitting. As with many of the restaurants around, they do two sittings for dinner, to maximise custom in a business that only operates five months of the year. One friend was slightly delayed but rather than rush us to turn the table they welcomed us happily and awaited our friend’s arrival.

Between us we ordered a good mix of steaks, salads and pizza and were certainly not disappointed. The steaks were ginormous and really juicy, with very little gristle. The pizza had a nice thin base, cooked to perfection in their wood burning oven. I cannot comment on the tartare as I'm not a fan of raw meat or raw egg, but it didn't last long which is always a good sign. With a little room left we decided to treat ourselves to dessert. The Cafe Gourmand (an espresso served with three mini desserts) was a popular choice and came with panacotta, an apple tart and a chocolate mousse. The winner in my book though was the chocolate fondant pudding which was gooey and served with a delicious crème anglaise as well as ice cream. This was all washed down with several carafes of house wine, which was reasonable and palatable and some complimentary genepy to finish. At little over €35 for two courses with wine it won’t break the bank and you’ll find something for everyone with a varied menu of good quality meals.

If you really fancy a treat though my recommendation has to be the Azimut in Le Praz. Michelin starred food without the price tag and most importantly, without the stuffy service either. The manageress and waitress are friendly and warm and the food is just spectacular. They do a variety of different priced set menus and starting at €30 they’re really good value.

We opted for the slightly higher €41 menu as well as a few dishes off the à la carte choices. This included an amuse bouche of chestnut cappuccino, a velouté with a delicious creamy foam on top. My partner, who chose the menu, then had some deliciously poached oysters served with a cauliflower broth, confit leeks and crispy bacon, whilst I tucked into the amazing home-baked rolls. For main course I had the most tender braised pork cheek in a red wine jus with pureed parsnips and gratin potatoes. Whilst he enjoyed a perfectly pink duckling breast in pan juices with roasted turnip and polenta. Next came the fourth course from his menu, the cheese course. As they wheeled over a trolley with an impressive array of hard and soft cheeses we instantly regretted devouring a mountain of bread. The French really know how to do cheeses, with local specialities such as Beaufort leaving their mark.

Despite feeling satisfyingly full we still eagerly awaited our desserts. Mine was the highlight of the meal for me and one of the best desserts I’ve ever eaten. A beautiful apple layered dish with confit apple between sugar discs atop of each other with apple rice pudding and a caramel sauce – heaven in a bowl. It took all my reserve not to lick my bowl clean there and then. My partner finished with a beautifully goey chocolate fondant pudding with vanilla and bourbon ice-cream. We’d eaten like kings and been treated like royalty and all for less than €100, including a half bottle of Sancerre. The bill arrived with petit fours, as if we hadn’t eaten enough, but a lovely touch all the same. This place really is a hidden gem and is perfect for a romantic meal for two or a cosy dinner with friends, so make it a priority on your next visit.

That's it for this week - I'm off to work off the excesses on the mountain!

Bon Ski!