Courchevel Apres Ski Report: 25th February 2013

Rather than being a ski widow or widower, non-skiers are joining their skiing partners in resort, and why not? Stunning views, fantastic food and a lively atmosphere, maybe non-skiing is to be the new big thing. So this week, rather than focussing on après ski I thought I’d take a different tack and write about au lieu de ski. So what else is there to do in Courchevel?

I might be stating the obvious but Courchevel, is indeed a beautiful place to be! There are mini forests, tree-lined runs, frozen rivers and lakes and, in close proximity, you can reach cute and quintessentially French villages and hamlets. If you’re a fan of walking then why not pop on some snow shoes and get out there and explore. Between Courchevel (1850), Moriond (1650), Village (1550) and Le Praz (1300) there are a myriad of walking paths through peaceful and secluded woods. Although not difficult terrain snow shoes are advised to prevent you sinking in snow-covered paths. Many of the ski hire shops in town stock snow shoes, so they shouldn’t be hard to source. If you’d like to get off the beaten track a little then you might want to consider venturing into Les Avals, a beautiful valley off to the left of Moriond , or down to nearby Lac Rosiere.

Or how about trying a little cross-country skiing if you’re feeling athletic? Ski de fond is a great way to get some exercise and fresh air and see some of the local area. With most cross-country trails at lower altitudes it doesn’t really require such technical clothing or gear - the equipment is fairly reasonable to rent and the boots much more manoeuvrable than big clumpy ski boots. In Courchevel there are trails in Belverdere and round the lake in Le Praz as well as in lower lying villages such as Bozel. Check out this 3 Vallees cross country ski guide for some suggestions of local trails.

Adrenaline junkies should check out the luge (toboggan) track which runs from Courchevel to Village. A 2km long run with 300m vertical drop and an incline of 15% this isn’t for the faint hearted. Be prepared to be knocked about as you race for the finish and make sure you wear warm clothing and helmets, especially children. You can rent the sledges from many of the hire shops in resort fairly cheaply and the track is lit up at night until 7.30pm with the Grangette gondola running to take you back up.

For some though, the lure of a ski resort is not the great outdoors but rather the buzz and atmosphere which cannot be replicated. If your idea of a perfect ski break is lazing by an open fire sipping vin chaud or drowning in fondue then fear not, for Courchevel has plenty to keep you amused. Courchevel is in a fact a foodies heaven. With an impressive 12 Michelin stars to its name as of 2013, Courchevel is leading the stakes in gourmet ski locations. With seven Michelin-starred restaurants to choose from, from the historic Chabichou to the new and contemporary Azimut you’ll be hard pushed to tire of the food here. And if fine dining isn’t your thing then get on the cheese train and indulge in fondue, raclette or tartiflette.

The other thing that Courchevel does well is après. It hasn’t always been renowned as an après location but over the years its come leaps and bounds. With cracking venues such as La Boulotte in Moriond leading the way with live music at après four nights a week (Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 5-7pm ish) I’m going to put it out there and say Courchevel rocks after hours.

If table dancing and live music aren't your things though and you prefer something a bit more chilled then try the Fire and Ice Bar at the Portetta (at the foot of the piste in Moriond). They have an open fire pit and outdoor heaters as well as cosy furs (fake, fear not) to snuggle up in and feel really luxuriant. Their daily happy hour is between 4 – 6pm when drinks are reasonable and free cake and pizza is served. Or head down to Le Praz and enjoy a glass of wine, cheese and charcuterie at local’s favourite, the Cave des Lys - a gorgeous little French wine bar set in a traditional wine cave.

With all that and a little meandering around the different villages your week really will fly by.

Maybe a week just isn’t long enough….